How effective is SD800 Image Stabilizer?

by Tùng béo

How effective is the SD800 Image Stabilizer?

Is it necessary or is it something that I won’t be needing as much.

Does it have a noticeable exchange on photos whether I have it or not?

Thank you for your answers!

PS :
I am aware of the comparisons and rations on dpreview.com and additional review sites.

I just wanted to see what you personally thought.
Oh yeah. It’s List SD 800

Answer by antoni m
not needed if you use tripod or in bright light

in low light no tripod it is useful

Answer by TomTom
very excellent
it is worth it

Answer by Dr. Sam
It works. Here is my stock answer and, even if the examples are using an SLR, the principle applies. My daughter has the SD700-IS and I used it for a week and I can say that it is probably as effective as the “VR” in my Nikon lenses. It works best if you keep it in the “continuous” mode and not just in the “during shot” (“shot only?” something like that) mode.

This technology is known as “image stabilization,” “vibration reduction,” “shake reduction,” “optical stabilization,” and “anti-shake” by the innumerable manufacturers. It is “for real” and makes a visible difference most of the time. If you are using an average point and shoot camera without a monstrous zoom lens, you will see the difference in lower light situations where the camera will be using about 1/60th of a second or lower.

If you are using a telephoto lens, the effect will be noticeable at roughly anything slower than the inverse of the focal length, which used to be our standard for deciding when you should use a tripod. If it’s a 200 mm lens, you will see the benefit of “IS” or “VR” at speeds of 1/200 or slower. If it’s a 500 mm lens, you will see the benefit of “IS” or “VR” at speeds of 1/500 or slower. Really, you will notice a difference at slower speeds than this, but I’d say that this threshold is where it can be called a distinct benefit. Macro shooting benefits from “IS/VR” also, because any movement will be greatly magnified when you are working at extreme close range with high magnification. Also, I feel that “IS/VR” helps if you are using a point and shoot camera at arm’s length as you compose in the LCD monitor. It is much harder to hold the camera still with your arms out in front of you. “VR/IS” would be helpful there, even with the shorter focal lengths.

Please know that “VR” or “IS” (etc) will NOT stop motion in a moving subject. You need to use a high shutter speed and/or pan along with the subject in order to do that. VR is only to minimize the effects of camera movement to give you a better chance at getting a apparent picture. It won’t work miracles there, any. You have to at least TRY to hold still. You can’t go down a bumpy road in speeding car and expect to get fantastic shots.

This is a composite I made to demonstrate “vibration reduction,” which is also called “image stabilization” and “shake reduction” by innumerable camera and lens manufacturers. For the best results, you should click on “All Sizes” and then “First” before making your comparisons. I tried to remain consistent for all three shots, but I guess as clouds go in and out, things varied by an f-stop or so. I do not reckon that depth of field is an issue in this test, though. I did not go my feet at all during the test, so the point of view is identical. All three images were made using 1/60th of a second, which I consider to be the low shutter speed for hand-holding a 60 mm lens. I made a reference shot with my 60 mm Nikon macro lens, since I know this to be a positively sharp lens. I tried to hold as still as I may maybe, but I did not use a tripod. I then made two more exposures with the Nikon 18-200 VR lens, set at 62 mm. I was trying to match the 60 mm lens, but I did it by just remembering some landmarks and zooming to match. As I used the VR lens, but, I did my best to really “vibrate” the camera by inducing a tremor in my hands as if I was shivering in the cold. I took one photo with the help of VR and one without. It was exceptionally odd to look through the lens as I shook my hands.

Since the VR was working, even though I knew I was shaking the camera, the image appeared steady in the viewfinder! Okay, compare the shots for yourself. You won’t see too much difference in the top two, but the effect of vibration reduction is very obvious when you see how the picture comes out when “VR” is turned off.

Nikon D200 – ISO 100 – Nikon 60 mm Macro and Nikon 18-200 VR with and without VR

http://www.flickr.com/photos/samfeinstein/511455669/

I realized that the first VR demo (above) may not be a “real world” demo, as I was TRYING to shake during the exposure. Who does that? I was originally trying to answer a question for someone who had a conundrum with severe tremors, so I was trying to induce tremors in my own hands. Well, I should question, “Who does that on purpose?”

So in this pair, I was trying to hold still for both shots. The white balance is different, as I am trying to learn about that, but I realized that the first shot I took had the “VR” turned off. Everything else is the same, because I didn’t go and the shots were made less than 30 seconds apart. The exposures were the same for both shots. I did not do ANY post-processing at all, as that would defeat the purpose of the demo.

Nikon D200 – ISO 100 – Nikon 70-300 VR @ 240 mm with and without VR

http://www.flickr.com/photos/samfeinstein/755244335/

For a detailed, yet simple to know explanation, see:

http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/image-stabilization.htm

Add your own answer in the comments!

Harley Gold


Image by Orbmiser
Must be slipp’in as only got 32nd in 150 enteries in the Composition Fill the Frame Challenge.
First here.… So check out there Challenges and enter to see how it goes for you.

The camera I found online is a Nikon D50 6.1 Megapixel w/ 70-300 mm lens + accessories. Price- 275$ slightly used.

http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/nikond50/

That is the review.
Do you reckon that it’ll be a excellent camera for close ups, nature and such?
If not, I need help result a decently excellent camera.

Answer by fatamorrighan
The nikon D-80 is a really fantastic camera, and your lens should be a macro-telephoto lens for close ups.

Answer by Bill P
That might be a bit expensive if the camera has maxed out its shutter count, so you want to question how many photos it has taken. The owner will have that information right at hand. But first, find out how many Nikon guarantees the camera for.

That lens would be fine for nature shots, but not close ups unless it says that it is a macro (or micro) lens. also, you will want to know the brand name of the lens, if it is not Nikon’s lens, then I would question it.

Answer by mae d
its not really up to the body when it comes to photos. its all in the lenses. i reckon the 70-300 mm lens would be fine. but i would suggest the 80-200mm lens instead. its cheaper, smaller, youve got all you need in one lens and it focuses 3 times quicker than the 70-300mm.

Answer by lensmen2
Do you know a lot about cameras and photography?

Yes…..!

But, while a excellent camera body is essential for excellent images, it is the lens that really sees and “takes” the image… Meaning…

The lens you say here will NOT close focus. It is NOT a macro lens. If you can get a 1:3 ratio you will be lucky. But, it IS a excellent starting system as long as there is nothing incorrect with it and you can add more lenses later, as needed.

With your set-up as confirmed above I may maybe see 2 more lenses to “round it out”.. If close up’s are a huge item, buy a Macro lens. These are NOT a zoom lens but a fixed focus lens from, oh, 50mm to 120mm and while they WILL focus to the horizon, they will also focus down to the size of a stamp, coin or small butterfly and often with incredible sharpness.

The 2nd lens would be a zoom, a 18 to 70 or there abouts… Your 70 to 300 will be very awkward at parties and such because anyone will have to be half way across the room just for a head shot. Want a group shot..? Get everyone outside and many many yards away because again, the 70mm on the camera is NOT a wide angle.

Depending on what is more vital would dictate the second lens, the macro or the wide angle.

No need in having too many lenses over lap them selves unless you get into what are known as – Fill in Lenses. These are fixed focal length, like the macro, and are often much sharper and crisper than zooms because of the less glass in them. They often cost more too….!

If you find you really delight in shooting public, a 50mm 1.8 or a 85mm 1.8 may maybe be a brilliant choice for such. The 50mm would be fantastic in low lite situations too, like parties with out too much flash, concerts, outdoors at night and such. Anywhere the light is low and you want available light.

The package sounds excellent.. Excellent luck

Bob – Tucson

Answer by vicseo
Why hold a “slightly used” Nikon D50 when you can buy the later recommendation.

If you are really on a budget and want the best quality for the money, check out the P&S Panasonic Lumix DMC-FZ28 which has more features than most pro DSLRs that require auxiliary lenses not even equal to the single initial full-range lense that comes with the FZ28. It is reviewed at:

http://www.steves-digicams.com/2008_reviews/panasonic_fz28.html

It just came out on November 4, 2008.

It’s an all-in-one 10.1 megapixel DSLR camera which includes (i) built-in image stabilization; (ii) HDTV quality record [Quicktime]; (iii) a 18x zoom [27 - 486 mm (35mm equiv.)] “Leica” lense for nature photography; (iv) up to 0.39 inch macro option; (v) up to 6400 ASA; (vi) takes up to 380 pictures per 120 min. battery charge; (vii) has a “burst speed” of 13 fps; and sells new for $ 270 at amazon.com.

Here’s an actual handheld picture of the moon:

http://g-ecx.images-amazon.com/images/G/01/ciu/bf/1b/a83ac060ada0881604bad110.L.jpg

Excellent luck!

Know better? Place your own answer in the comments!

Blunty3000 Doesn’t review the List EOS 60D DSLR camera, but he does tell you what he thinks about using it… *shrug* He also types in the third person occasionally. The lenses I used for the sample record and photos used in this vid were all taken with any the List EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 Kit lens and the TAMRON SP 70-300mm F/4-5.6 Here’s the link to the DPReview article I mentioned; www.dpreview.com The List EOS 60D is the long-awaited successor to the 50D, It features an all new swivellly-tilty screen business, which is pretty dan clever for getting framed up from hard angles – and for record too.. but that’s just one of the neato things that made me get one.